Two wheels, alone on the SWC300
My first solo tour on two wheels.
My head and heart were ready to be lost in the Scotland again. I was ready to leave the stresses of life behind and just be on the road with miles and miles ahead of me. Recently out of a relationship that was frankly more toxic than I care to admit. A tour in Scotland was just what my soul needed. Solo. My very first solo tour. With just 1.5 years into my riding journey and with my 6-month-old (to me) Royal Enfield Interceptor. It was time to take him and myself on a proper journey. Prior to this I’d travelled solo, moved across Canada on my own, and crossed the Atlantic Ocean leaving all my friends and family behind to begin a new life in the UK. But for some reason a solo journey on two wheels seemed much more daunting then moving across the ocean to a different country. Nevertheless, I began planning my route. Having completed the NC500 the summer prior I decided I wanted to see a different part of Scotland, so I focused my energy on the SWC300 and Argyle Coastal Route. My idea was to do the SWC300, ride to Isle of Bute where my mates had a cottage to spend a few days with them, up the A82 to Glen Coe(my favouriteeeee road in the highlands) and back down the Argyle Coastal Road to the cottage and then onwards to home. Sweet, simple and full of fantastic roads for my new man and I to ride on. Interested in my itinerary? Have a look here!
My previous tour to Scotland I had been stuck to A roads due to still having L-plates. Now with a full license I wanted to ensure I made the most of my time in Scotland which meant a gruelling 6-hour ride on the motorway to Dumfries, just over the Scottish border and my starting point for the SWC300. I started my first solo tour with nerves to the extreme, but the excitement soon overtook the nerves as I hit the road.
Day 1 of the SWC300 I began with a stop at Caerlaverock Castle, really cool if you do the route. For a castle it’s an interesting unique design primarily for its triangular shape complete with a moat. Next on to Sotherness Lighthouse. The town was a bit of a drab, but the lighthouse and coastal view was lovely. Though my favourite spot was a cute harbour town Isle of Whithorn. I really wish I had planned to spend more time here. Sadly, this was also pretty much my only full day of sun for the entire tour. Thanks Scotland! I continued my route making it to my hotel for the night in Portpatrick where I quickly dropped off my luggage and went for a ride down to the Mull of Galloway Lighthouse, the most southern point in Scotland. The views here are just amazing. I literally spent ages just riding around the country roads and walking along the coastline where the lighthouse was situated. It was beautiful at golden hour, and I pretty much had it all to myself.
I spent the night at the Portpatrick Hotel along with the New Castle Biker club which again reminded me of how special this biker community is. It doesn’t really matter where you are in the world, but you know you’ll always find a kind face in a fellow biker. I spent the evening having pints and listening to these weathered riders tell me stories about their adventures. With the occasional “My son is single and I think you would love him”, who needs a match maker when you have bikers. Not that I took them up on it though it did give me a laugh. Being a solo female rider wandering my way through Scotland did seem to shock them a bit. But my argument is why should being single stop me from my adventures when women are just as capable of travelling solo. Can’t let boys have all the fun.
“Sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere and sometimes in the middle of nowhere you find yourself.”
I set off first thing in the morning hoping to miss the rain that I knew was coming. Heading north along the coastline. Stoping at Dunure Castle and the Electric Brae. Shortly after this the rain finally caught up with me as I was waiting for my first ferry to the Isle of Bute at the Wemyss Bay Ferry Port. Once on the ferry we strapped Darrow down good as the waters were starting to get a bit rough. 45 minutes later I was bimbleing around the Isle of Bute with the rain only getting worse. I finally headed to my second ferry in Rhubodach to get me to Colintraive on the mainland. Once again on the mainland I started making my way to Acharossan House with a stop at the Loch Ruel viewpoint. Even with the rain Scotland always makes it worth it. Just bundle up and wear your waterproofs. It’s so easy to get lost in the landscape. I took refuge from the rain at The Royal an Lochan while I waited for my mates to arrive at Acharossan. I was in a proper state when I walked in, and they knew exactly where to put me. Right in front of the wood burner where I could sip my coffee and enjoy the warmth of the fire as I dried out for a bit and waited for my mates. Here is also where I realised that I had forgotten my phone charger at the Portpatric Hotel. Not a bad thing but meant I would go a couple days without a phone. Trying to find a phone cable in the boonies of Scotland was harder then I expected. Forcing me to take a proper break from always being connected. Once getting to Acharossan I took the hottest shower possible. Changed into my coziest clothes and socks and snuggled up in one of the massive armchairs to read while my mates got settled in.
Over the next couple days, I took it easy. Spending time with friends, eating good food - an excessive number of oysters, and bimbleing around country roads and coastlines. Scotland for me is very much my happy place. I’ve been a few times now and I never seem to tire of her beauty. She is one the places where I can feel fully decompressed from the woes and constant rat race of life. This is rare for me but for some reason Scotland on my bike is one of the few spots in the world that lets me feel at peace. I’m not sure if it’s the surreal landscape, the moodiness or the fact it reminds me soo much of where my dad is from in Canada, but I love it and would move here in instant if it made sense. Anyone want to get a second home in Scotland with me?
After a few days relaxing I headed out to ride my favourite road. The A82. I literally fall in love with this road every time I pass through. It brings up soo many positive emotions as I ride through the Glen Coe Valley. I feel so small nestled into the valley’s twisting roads travelling between the mountains. All my troubles slip away as I focus on the surreal landscape in front of me. Taking my breath away again and again. To me this road will always be perfect. It’s also the most amazing reminder of why I love to ride. The roads, the views, everything just seems to fall into place and become this graceful perfect ride no matter the weather. Just before the Three Sisters Viewpoint you can turn down a one lane road and follow it to one of the filming locations used in James Bond Skyfall. This road is very much worth it. Away from the main traffic and tourists heading deeper into the valley. I spent some time riding and exploring along this road and just appreciating the views before heading off to my AirBnb.
Heading out first thing in the morning and another really rainy day. At this point I was getting a cold from the constant wet and starting to feel a bit miserable. Still enjoying the views but a bit more aware that I wasn’t feeling 100%. I followed the Argyle Coastal route stopping at Castle Stalker wishing I could get closer. Being set on an isle meant that I could only see it from afar. Then on to Oban where I spent some time watching the rain come down over the ocean from the safe spot in a café. Hoping the weather would let up even a little bit. It didn’t. Of course, it didn’t. So I sucked it up and continued on my way where the sun finally peeked through the clouds in Tarbert. A small little town where I was meeting my mates before catching the ferry back to Acharossan House. Picking up some more oysters at the seafood shack before getting on the ferry. Honestly, these oysters were the best.
I spent a couple more nights at Acharossan House before finally heading south to home. My first solo tour coming to an end without any issues and a major sense of achievement. Driving me to want more and plan my next bigger adventure to Europe.
