Solo Beyond the Channel - Part 2
Riding Blind
Heading up into the alps. Enduring all elements of rain, minimal visibility, and snow just to glimpse some of the most amazing views the alps has to offer.
My first day in the alps of course had to be pissing it down. I left first thing in the morning before my wonderful hosts had waken. They knew I was heading out quite early so we had said our goodbye’s the night before. I said so long to the warm and dry and set out through the quiet streets of Zurich. My route for the day started by passing by Interlaken, stopping at Aare Gorge first thing before the rush of tourists. Aare was beautiful. I walked the entire length of the gorge with barely seeing a soul. The waters crystal blue in between the sheer massive cliffs with the alps peeking through at the end. The photos I took really didn’t do it justice. It was quiet, surreal and beautiful – a wonderful place to feel lost. By the time I headed back to the bike the first couple of tourist busses had arrive. Just on time – I love travelling but I hate crowds. Sometimes you can’t get around it but it can really ruin a place that wasn’t meant to be a tourist attraction.
From Aare Gorge I headed straight to the passes in the alps. Hitting four famous passes Susten, Gotthard, Nufenen and Furka in one big loop – all beautiful and spectacular in their own way. I thought the ride would be technical but straight forward enough. I really did underestimate the lack of visibility I had to endure. Sustenpass was the first. Weather was fine a bit chilly at the top but not unexpected.
Gotthard though… that was something else. I began the climb up - visibility and temperatures drastically decreasing. I can honestly say I was scared shitless on this pass. My visibility wasn’t minimal it was non-existent. I couldn’t even see my front tire and I literally had to use my GPS to make my way over the pass rather than the road. Taking each hairpin turn slow with the use of my GPS because I couldn’t even see if there was wall between me and a ledge. I watched my GPS as I came to the summit of Gotthard but honestly, I couldn’t see anything. I was too afraid to stop not knowing if I was going over a precipice, toppling into a ditch, anything. Speed – 15 mph max. Heated grips at 100%. Hands frozen. Trying not to panic. Taking my time and just pushing through to get back down on the other side. The entire time not only worried about riding off the edge of a mountain but also if someone was going to crash into me. Being very aware of how vulnerable I was. If I couldn’t see a car let alone a truck, they for sure weren’t going to see me on my Royal Enfield. Slow and steady I made my way off Gotthard pass. Grateful to make it in one piece and deciding I needed a break and some lunch to calm my nerves before attempting Nufenen and Furka.
Nufenen was only slightly better than Gotthard in regard to visibility though with the added issue of snow. With being able to see just a tad bit more I was brave enough to snap a quick photo at the top. Though instantly regretting removing my hands from gloves to do so. A quick snap and straight back into my gloves and grasping my heated grips for warmth. With visibility still minimal I had a guy in a truck follow me back down the other side of Nufenen to ensure no one would crash into me. A small thing but greatly appreciated when you are pushing yourself through the elements at 10 mph.
My final pass of the day was Furka. The weather had eased up. No snow, minimal rain though still fairly foggy - but at least I could see the road. I made my way up, stopping to get the famous shot in front of the now closed Belvedere Hotel. Then continuing up to the top. I stopped to take in the views where a man, who didn’t speak a word of English, I think he was German - offered to take photos of me and my bike. The photos were awful but it was the thought that counts. He motioned to take a picture of him with my bike, which ended up happening a few times on my tour. We appreciated the views and before he left he offered me a bag of cookies that he insisted I take. So munching away on my gifted cookies at the top of Furkapass grateful the for the adventures of the a day even if at some points I was unsure of my decision to do these passes.
I worked my way down and off Furkapass ready to end the day. My original plan was to camp but it seemed like a storm was brewing. Wind speeds were picking up and the rain was starting. I opted for a hostel in Gothard. The manager put me in a room with two elderly bikers who seemed nice enough but again the language barrier preventing any real conversation. I spent my night with a German couple playing rummy, a game I had played with my family as a child but hadn’t played in years. Surprisingly I did okay. Drinking and chatting the night away happy with my choice as the wind rattled the windows and the rain poured down.
My second day in the alps included a ride over Kunkels Pass, a pass I had seen on Instagram which included a tunnel dug out of the mountain. Once I saw it, I had to go - so on the route it went. Finishing the day by crossing the Stelvio Pass which is considered Top Gear’s second-best road in the world. An exciting route planned to say the least. The weather was beginning to clear, and the sun was even popping out to play. I wound my way through valleys making way to Kunkels Pass. One of the only legal “off-road” roads in Switzerland. Though I think calling it an “off-road” is being a bit optimistic – more like a gravel road and tarmac to be honest. I began my ride up into the treeline. The roads much steeper then expected. The precipitous inclines, hairpin turns and sheer drops getting my blood pumping first thing in the morning. Heart still racing I made it to right before the tunnel I was riding to. It did not disappoint. Drilled through the stone with windows dug out of the rock to provide the only light as you wind your way through. Barely room for one vehicle. I rode through making it to the top of Kunkels pass enjoying every moment of it. Kunkels pass opens up onto a beautiful valley with a one-track road winding its way through. This morning was perfect. A little of adrenaline, some much needed sun, and perfect windy roads through valleys nestled between mountains.
The closer I started getting to Stelvio Pass the worse the weather started to get. Riding through the alps you can literally get anything and everything in a short period of time. On one side of a mountain the weather could be brilliant. Sun shining and not a cloud in the sky. Cross over that mountain and you’ll get snow, rain, and everything to make you question your decision of riding a motorcycle. Clouds started coming in and eventually the rain started as I was making my way up Umbrail Pass. The rain gradually turning into snow and the fog starting to settle in. The weather was getting bad which was supported by almost no one on the roads for what is considered to be a very popular pass. I was also getting tired. The endless amounts of switchbacks were starting to drive me a little crazy. The concentration on getting those tight hairpin bends while dealing with rain and snow were exhausting. Not just physically but mentally. Finally making it to the top of Stelvio – it was all worth it. The views were surreal. Breath-taking. We were on top of the world and getting lost in the clouds! To make the day even more of a milestone – it had been exactly one year since I had passed my MOD2 – making it one full year of having my full motorcycle license. And how was I spending it? Riding the Stelvio Pass in the middle of a solo tour through Europe. Not going to lie but I was pretty chuffed with myself. Moments like these are what make me feel alive. Pushing my limits, overcoming my fear and being rewarded with the most amazing views and the greatest sense of achievement. All through the world of two wheels. Continuing to drive my addiction for more.
We continued our way down off Stelvio, with of course more fog. Crossing over into Italy. Riding through beautiful orchards and finally more sun! It was the perfect end to the day. I set-up camp in a campsite in Lastch. Grabbed some dinner. Then snuggled up into my sleeping for the night under the stars with the mountains keeping watch.
